My friend, Michael, just e-mailed me this review of Ken's Artisan Pizza. It's one of the restaurants we ate at during my trip to Portland, Oregon a few weeks back:
The restaurant's lush design by Fix Studio pays homage to the building's history with a subtle nudge -- some of the lighting over the bar and the exposed kitchen is fashioned out of gallon and quart paint cans. Other touches give the dining room a warm, rustic feel, such as family-style farmhouse tables, massive exposed wood beams and a long bar top fashioned out of recycled old-growth Douglas fir that once was part of a Jantzen Beach roller coaster.
The focal point, though, is the massive, beehivelike oven and the cords of wood that fuel it. They're right in the middle of the space and the first thing you notice when you walk in. Flour-dusted cooks scurry around the oven, throwing dough high into the air before putting it on paddles and passing them through the hearth, where the flames work their magic.
The ultra-thin crusts have a cracklingly crisp bottom, and the edges of the crust have spots of charring that give each bite a hint of smoky complexity. Toppings are minimal -- a scattering of salty anchovies and basil leaves or a smattering of sweet fennel sausage and roasted onions, perhaps. Keeping it so simple has the odd effect of making the pizzas far more interesting to eat than your run-of-the-mill pie. Because toppings aren't excessively piled on, you notice different flavors with each bite.
If you're in the Portland area, be sure to check it out! The food was delicious and the restaurant was truly a unique dining experience.
Visit their website here.
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